New York Fashion Week returned, and it was a buoyant and especially fun extravaganza that felt like fashion — and the spirit and excitement of creative expression — was truly back.
In February the shows look ahead to fall. So when NYFW kicked off last Friday, one of the first to wow was Helmut Lang’s autumn-friendly looks. Down the runway came plenty of color blocking, bright chunks of tangerine, along with lots of the brand’s signature sharp, all-black suiting. But there was also some exceptional easy-going one-sleeve blouses in pearly grays that are terrific for day-to-night dressing, paired with slightly flowy skirts.
On the same day at Libertine, a brand known best for its silk-screened vintage garments, handmade prints like the bold and fun “lip print” came out alongside clothes that referenced iconic figures ranging from Lord Byron to Peggy Guggenheim and everything from ‘70s punk to pop art.
I’d be remiss not to mention Yigal Azrouel’s new collection. I love his figure-conscious and environmentally aware designs, and this season’s lean on recycled furs and leathers. He presented some terrific new color blocked and metallic jackets, and beautiful body-conscious dresses.
That all led into the 3.1 Phillip Lim collection, which did all of us practical ladies the favor of offering looks that move easily between work and non-work life, pairing dressy and casual elements — witness his athleisure-like pants and tailored jackets. I’d also point out winning pieces like the V-neck tennis sweaters, cargo utility skirts, metallic button-down blouses, all of it extremely mix-and-match-friendly.
More reasons to look forward to fall came out Prabal Gurung’s show, too: Like the intensely saturated red, flowing and fluid caftan-like dress over pants and a turtleneck in the same crimson hue. And I also can’t wait to wear one of his one-shoulder dresses that he sent out in silhouettes ranging from fitted and mini to baggy and maximalist.
On Saturday, the Badgley Mischka show went in big for old school elegance — metallic ruched evening dresses and column gowns. And Proenza Schouler once again didn’t disappoint with their collection, which I would describe as long, luxurious, and louche. That meant refined white trench coats in silk and satin, gauzy mock turtleneck dresses dipping down to the ankles, and shearling coats. In black there were button-down shirts and dresses that would’ve been prim if they weren’t so sheer, alongside sleek black leather pants and midriff-baring sleeveless cowlneck tops. I love all of these big, fun statements, which the Proenza Schouler team can always be depended on to reinvent with daring and ingenuity.
On the heels of that came Eckhaus Latta’s show, filled with all kinds of cool details — skirts with slashed sides, baggy chocolate brown slacks, and denim jackets-and-pant sets in dark indigo. Plenty of it was paired with sporty and asymmetrical skirts, lined in pink striping that could be worn as easily on the weekend as to the office any day of the week.
At Jason Wu, the designer leaned into beautiful deconstruction. There was tons of wrapping and draping, with loose asymmetrical over-the-shoulder swaths on tops and dresses that almost called to mind ancient Greek statues. And for all of the grandeur that suggests, they were pieces that could be worn to any date night dinner, and bright, fun shirts that could be in a boardroom, too. Ulla Johnson’s show turned heads with a series of gorgeous and bright yellow and purple dresses in boiled wool — perfect examples of the kind of beautiful bright spots we’ll get to look forward to in the seasons ahead.
